Seamanship

Bowline

The fixed loop that holds and still unties easily.

The bowline puts a non-slipping loop in the end of a line — for making fast, for the mooring line, or to drop a warp over a bollard. It holds securely under load and still comes undone easily afterwards. Mnemonic: the rabbit comes out of the hole, round the tree and back down the hole.

See alsoClove hitch · Making fast to a cleat

Clove hitch

Quickly made fast to a post, rung or guardrail.

The clove hitch makes a line fast quickly to a round object such as a pile or a guardrail stanchion. It is quick to tie, but under varying load it should be secured, as it can work loose.

See alsoBowline · Making fast to a cleat

Figure-of-eight knot

A stopper knot to keep the line from running out.

The figure-of-eight is tied as a stopper in the end of sheets and halyards so the line cannot run out through a clutch, block or fairlead. It can still be undone after being loaded — unlike a simple overhand knot.

See alsoBowline

Making fast to a cleat

Round turn, figure-of-eight turns, locking hitch.

A line is made fast on a cleat with: a round turn around the base, several crossing figure-of-eight turns and a final locking hitch that holds. Under heavy load, take a round turn round the winch or bollard first before belaying by hand.

See alsoBowline · Clove hitch

Tacking & gybing

Bow through the wind vs. stern through the wind.

In a tack the bow turns through the wind: a controlled manoeuvre, as the sails lose pressure. Command “Lee-oh!”, and release the jib late. In a gybe the stern turns through the wind — the main boom swings across with force. A gybe calls for the mainsheet to be hauled in before the boom comes over, and for care, especially in strong winds.

See alsoSailing vessels among themselves (Rule 12) · Reefing

Reefing

Reducing sail area in good time.

Reefing reduces sail area as the wind builds — with slab reefing (reef cringle plus reef points) or roller reefing. Rule of thumb: if you are thinking about reefing, do it. Reefed early, while the deck is still comfortable, you sail more safely and often even faster than pressed over with heavy heel and weather helm.

See alsoTacking & gybing · Storm canvas · Sail trim — the basics

Man-overboard manoeuvre

Mark, keep in sight, recover safely.

Act immediately:

• shout “Man overboard”, throw a lifebuoy or danbuoy, press the MOB button on the plotter.
• one person points at the casualty without interruption.
• sail the manoeuvre (e.g. quick-stop or gybe recovery) back to the person.
• approach from leeward, stop the boat, take the way off, come to a standstill alongside the casualty and recover them.

Cold and exhausted people need help getting back on board — have recovery gear ready.

See alsoLifejacket & harness · Heaving to

Anchoring

Holding ground, scope and anchor watch.

Good holding ground is sand or firm mud. As scope, reckon roughly 4 to 7 times the depth of water for chain (more for rope) — depending on wind and swell. After letting go, set the anchor and check that it is holding (bearings on shore). The swinging circle must be clear of obstructions; in wind, keep an anchor watch.

See alsoVessels at anchor & shapes

Sail trim — the basics

Camber, twist and the balance of the boat.

Sheet, traveller, cunningham, kicker and backstay control the camber and the twist of the sails. Too much sail pressure aft makes the boat gripe to windward (weather helm), too much forward gives lee helm. The aim is slight weather helm for rudder balance and good pointing.

See alsoReefing · Tacking & gybing

Prop walk

How the propeller pushes the stern sideways.

A turning propeller pushes the stern sideways — prop walk. A right-handed propeller pulls the stern to port when going astern. This behaviour can be used deliberately when berthing and leaving, for instance to bring the stern round in a controlled way.

See alsoAnchoring

Sheet bend

Joining two lines of different thickness.

The sheet bend joins two lines, including ones of unequal size. Make a bight in the thicker line, pass the thinner one up through it, around both parts and back under itself. The double sheet bend (a second turn around the bight) holds better with very different diameters or with stiff rope.

See alsoBowline · Clove hitch · Figure-of-eight knot

Berthing & leaving

Work with wind and current, do not fight them.

When berthing and leaving, the stronger of wind and current governs — manoeuvre against it where you can, which gives control at low speed. Go slowly, have the lines ready early (bow line, stern line, springs), get the fenders out and brief the crew.

Springs are the key: against a forward spring the engine will swing the stern in, against an after spring the bow — which lets you berth and leave under control even in an unfavourable wind.

See alsoProp walk · Making fast to a cleat · Anchoring

The diesel engine on board

The diesel as your helper — checks, cooling, bleeding.

A marine diesel is robust, but it will not tolerate air or water in the fuel system. Check before starting: oil and coolant levels, drive belt, seacock open. After starting: is cooling water coming out with the exhaust? If it will not start or runs roughly, there is often air in the system — then it must be bled.

Common weak points: a clogged fuel/water separator, a failed impeller in the raw-water pump (cooling!), dirt in the fuel. A spare impeller, filters and tools belong on board.

See alsoProp walk · Berthing & leaving